Sashimi with North Koreans

Friday nights, starting next week, I'm going to teach English to North Koreans defectors at Durihana Church. A mix of people actually live at the church, mostly adults but a few children as well, perhaps around age 11 and 13, and an adorable toy Yorkie. The church is a modest sized building, that I assume used toe be a small apartment building much like mine. In the basement is the cafeteria and also two study rooms. The main floor has the church mass area (which has a band set up and piano, neat!), the second floor holds the offices and the third floor has a few dorms for the residents. They will have me arrive at 5:30 every Friday to have dinner in with everyone, and then at 6 pm I will begin the English lessons.

Tonight, I met with the organizer who is setting all of this up from the non-profit: HOPE, and a bilingual TA at the closest subway station to the church. The TA is a female student studying English Lit and will be volunteering with me each Friday and is very sweet. This was also her first encounter with any North Koreans. I think we will get along well!

Upon arrival at the church we were whisked off to the cafeteria for dinner which included a spicy radish and fish soup, rice, lettuce fixings (usually used to wrap pork at glabi bbqs in Korea) and, delicious dish of sashimi. I wasn't too hungry, but I don't think there has ever been an occasion where I've turned down raw fish. Wonderful!

The pastor is a South Korean man who knows a little bit of English. I most certainly got the sense of a paternal respect regarding him among everyone there. Not surprising but interesting to me none-the-less, perhaps because I haven't been around a church in a very long time. The manager that was interfacing with us is middle aged North Korean woman. Very proper and poised, she spoke not a word of English but still looked at me when addressing the group, something I appreciate, despite my lack of understanding. Many of the North Koreans eating dinner or working in the kitchen were rather short, I'm assuming from malnutrition. I expected as much, but I suppose I didn't expect the difference to be so dramatic and obvious. A couple of the women had a slight limp as well, though I do not know the cause. They ate quickly, shoveling large lettuce wraps in their mouths and I couldn't help but think about just how much they must appreciate this food. Or perhaps they've already grown accustomed?

Meeting in the offices after dinner, the manager explained, with the help of the HOPE organizer translating, that many of the people living at the church, and who will be attending my class, came without family and are lonely. The goal is to teach English, but really, more importantly they want me to connect and interact with my class. An aspect I am much more excited about than teaching English, though I do love to teach. I asked if there were any cultural differences I should be mindful of. Her reply was that perhaps family is a touchy issue and I shouldn't breach the subject until we are closer. I completely understand. She also warned me that since they had been alone for such a long time, they could be rude. I assured her I'm not easily offended and I think it will be no problem. She gave me a short DVD, an informational video on the camp, laden with Jesus propaganda (such as a clip of the pastor washing someone's feet.). But aside from that, I think they are doing a wonderful, and much needed service, and I feel so happy and privileged to be taking a small part in it.

After the meeting she gave us a small tour of the building and we were on our way. A resident walked us the bus stop and despite the cold, seemed happy to wait and chat, she even tried some English on me. I hope she takes my class.

I have been trying to gain as much knowledge on North Korea as possible. I am mostly through the memoir Aquariums of Pyongyang, written by a North Korean defector who lived 10 years in one of the work camps. I also watched a few documentaries this week. They are indoctrinated very early on to hate Americans and the Japanese, and blame us for many of their woes, including but not limited to: slaughters in the war, the division of the north and south, and the most puzzling: power blackouts. So I think it will be interesting to see how they interact with me.


On the way home, more happy events. I happened upon a flower shop in Nonhyeon subway station that sold hyacinths. I have been wanting some for my kindergarten class since they grow so fast and impressively beautiful. Arbor week is coming up soon and we have a plant project already, but I think this will be a nice addition.

I then found mini garden packets, one containing mimosa seeds, in another store. I was just discussing last night how much I wanted a mimosa plant and how I thought perhaps I wouldn't be able to find them in Seoul and then tada, the very next day! I'm so excited to plant them. Mimosa's are amazing! My kids would flip out if they saw one.

Demonstration for those that are unaware, to the soundtrack of Amelie no less. :)



I was going to make a video blog but my program is acting up so here are a few quick shots. :)

Funny moments...

On the bus ride home today, I clung to the top bar as I stood trying to keep my balance. Bus drivers, in fact almost all drivers in Korea, are aggressive renegades, running red lights, speeding, changing lanes without blinkers or hardly looking, and trying to beat pedestrians (who have the right of way) to the punch of crossing the street.

In any case, I'm doing the usual, and I see in the double seat behind me, 2 pairs of legs in converse and high school uniforms. My arm, encased in puffy jacket blocks their upper bodies from my view so I can't see their faces. They are sort of tangled up like a romantic couple and it strikes me as odd, considering PDA is not often seen in Korea, esp of that sort. You see hand holding and occasional pecks, but nothing ostentatious. So I'm imagining how funny it is in my head, thinking perhaps this new generation is becoming more bold. Making up a story in my head about these 2 high schoolers in their converses in love. I see one rubbing the others hands and I finally turn to get a look at their faces and... well it's two guys.

Not uncommon really. Same sex friends are often more affectionate than couples. In fact I've read that couples only fairly recently started holding hands in public, it was almost always same-sex friends. But the situation, and my assumptions tickled me nontheless. Afterwards I realized it was obvious they are both guys. The girls have to wear uniform skirts, not pants.

Ah Korea.

Mission Pink Bike

So today for the first time, I ventured to the French Village. I'd heard about this way before my first year here from a friend, but never went! It was kinda cute with lots of little coffee shops that I haven't seen anywhere else in Seoul, and thin roads, and French signs here and there.

But this was only coincidental. I went there today because I was buying a used bike for 50,000 won (about 45 bucks).

After realizing that I will shoot myself if I have to keep riding a bus that gets me to school as fast as I could walk, I decided a bike was simply not something I could wait til my first paycheck for(April 7th!). So I rode the subway a few stops and walked a bit to pick it up (after getting lost a few times because of some vague directions) and had the task of riding it home using a map from google I printed of the area.

The mission was a tremendous success. Though bike storage is a bit of an issue. I have the perfect sized back room for it but getting it through the gauntlet of fridge, stove, front bathroom door, back bathroom door, was a little daunting.

Settling Into My Nonhyeon Apt.

"Daiso, we wish you health and relaxation. The unique color of the aluminum makes the kitchen beautiful and practical. Intelligent choice! Practical choice! We believe your best choice."

Thank you kitchen knife package. Korea is marvelous with all kinds of messages and well wishes in English that don't make much sense or seem too dramatic for the purchase. How I love it.

I am currently in my new apartment. Good news, I don't have to bother with cleaning my bathroom sink. Ever. I don't have one.

On the upside, I managed to move my fridge into the kitchen... I mean hallway with a sink and stove top. It makes the space much smaller, but I can close the door to my "bedroom" and not hear it buzzing whilst I sleep. A definite plus.

Today was a holiday in Korea, Independence Movement Day, so I was out and about meeting old friends and completing shopping for the essentials (and some non-essentials) for my new place. Unlike my last apartment, I started with basically nothing now. No, actually nothing (aside from furniture). Nothing but a toaster and a lint roller. Though I did manage to take back some items that were removed by the cleaners and bring them back. Like the very important cooking pot.

Good news worried family. I'm on the new subway line, Line 9. (My stop: Sinnonhyeon Station) Newest means it's the deepest. Ample cover if bombs start dropping. ;)

Just kidding. Though speaking of which, I'm reading Aquariums of Pyongyang and I highly suggest it to just about everyone. I truly had no idea how gruesome the "work camps" (concentration camps) are in North Korea. Chilling.

Back to unpacking my things/new purchases and eventually hanging up photos and such.

Also if you want my address to write me snail mail, email me: mulder.monica@gmail.com. I'd be glad to have some more pen pals.

New Phone, sitting in Cafe Bene:





My Gardern Mug, inside new apartment: